Smqna dvigatel

[prj57]

Da GOLFER, znam ne si pyrviq koito mi go kazva ama Gospod obi4a smelite a normalnite ne ocelqvat .... No ako stane tova 6te dade hod na mnogo ma6tabni ne6ta ne e nujno da kazvam kakvo 6te ozna4ava, zapo4vame da si izgrajdame Bylgarska Tuning Scena

[brabus]

http://translate.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.vw-speed.de&langpair=de%7Cen&hl=en&ie=Unknown&oe=ASCII



Но и цената е 12 000 евро за кола `96 г.

[prj57]

Kakvo ima6 predvid topq Golf, brabus

[paco]

Za prj57...

Imam dvigatel za teb ( GTI 1.8 16V KR) bez dokumenti (ne e kraden a e ot katastrofiral Golf) za ~350lv.

PACO

[prj57]

Paco, mersi ama KR ne be6e li sys mehani4na injekcija, 6toto az sym na elektronna, a pri KR 6te ima dosta ne6ta da smenjam ako 6te go pravja 16V moito...

[paco]

Paco, mersi ama KR ne be6e li sys mehani4na injekcija, 6toto az sym na elektronna, a pri KR 6te ima dosta ne6ta da smenjam ako 6te go pravja 16V moito...

Da KR-a e s mexanichna injekcia...
Ako tvoia golf e s mono injekcia to tia ne stava za KR-a ama ako si palna ijekcia ste stanae nesto unikalno. Az taka stiax da go pravia ama nesto mnogo pari stiax da potrosha...

PACO

[KILLER GTI]

ako nqkoi iska moje da mu kaja kude moje si zakupi ABF motor ot mk3, a ot mk2 na mk3 motor ne moje da stane za6toto ne suvpadat tamponite na dvigatelq ili po to4no tozi koito e na magareto.

[prj57]

2.0 da se sloji na 1.8 njama da stane sy6to i VR6 njama da vleze zaradi zahva6taneto na samija dvigatel za 6asito tva e provereno otdavna.......

[Vlad777]

2.0 da se sloji na 1.8 njama da stane sy6to i VR6 njama da vleze zaradi zahva6taneto na samija dvigatel za 6asito tva e provereno otdavna.......

Виждал съм снимки в нета VW Golf 2 с двигател 1.8 T (зелен един)! Така че ако имаш желание и пари - всичко се постига!

[brabus]

2.0 da se sloji na 1.8 njama da stane sy6to i VR6 njama da vleze zaradi zahva6taneto na samija dvigatel za 6asito tva e provereno otdavna.......

Виждал съм снимки в нета VW Golf 2 с двигател 1.8 T (зелен един)! Така че ако имаш желание и пари - всичко се постига!

Така е с пари всичко става, а това, което не става с пари става с много пари.

[brabus]

2.0 da se sloji na 1.8 njama da stane sy6to i VR6 njama da vleze zaradi zahva6taneto na samija dvigatel za 6asito tva e provereno otdavna.......

Виждал съм снимки в нета VW Golf 2 с двигател 1.8 T (зелен един)! Така че ако имаш желание и пари - всичко се постига!

Така е с пари всичко става, а това, което не става с пари става с много пари.

[gti]

В Стара Загора има Голф3 с двигател от Порше би-турбо : около 400 коня разправят че бил,това с колко пари ли е станало?

[brabus]

Ами това черното G2 VR 6 подмяната е излязла 14 000 $
в т.ч. Двигател + скоростна кутия (с жила, а не с лостов механизъм) + окабеляване (всичко втора употреба), преработка на съединителя (на VR 6 е с хидравлична помпа, а не с жило), окачване, спирачки от Корадо (главини с 5 болта), джанти 16' + гуми и цялостно пребоядисване.

[prj57]

Da de ama nali se se6ta6 kolko za kyrtili i prezavarjavali po kupeto za da moje da se zahvane dvigatelja, a ina4e 1.8 T na golf 1,2 i mislja 4e i na 3 vliza i se zahva6ta edno kym edno, imam info za edna edeni4ka s Passatov 1.8t dvigatel horata kazaha 4e transplantacijata e edno kym edno.....

[brabus]

Da de ama nali se se6ta6 kolko za kyrtili i prezavarjavali po kupeto za da moje da se zahvane dvigatelja, a ina4e 1.8 T na golf 1,2 i mislja 4e i na 3 vliza i se zahva6ta edno kym edno, imam info za edna edeni4ka s Passatov 1.8t dvigatel horata kazaha 4e transplantacijata e edno kym edno.....

Значи трансплантацията на VR6 от Корадо е най-лесна за Голф 2, защото са на едно и също шаси. Единствения проблем идва само от единия тампон на двг-то. Играчка да се направят педалите, особенно на съединителя, защото на VR 6 не е с жило, а е като на Пасата с хидравлична помпа. И също така главините с накрайниците по кормилните щанги и захващането на спирачните апарати. Тук си облагодеталстван ако Голфа е G60 - става по-бързо и евтино.

Ако някой знае английски (на мен не ми се превежда) и се интересува да чете (то и аз не съм го изчел подробно цялото, а има и някои термини, за които ми трябва речник, така че ще стане по-бавно)


TRANSPLANTING A VR6 INTO A 85 VW GTI
by Eric Schumacher e.schumacher@worldnet.att.net 2-25-97

DESCRIPTION, BACKROUND AND GENERAL PHILISOPHY

The story that follows details most of the changes I had to
implement to repower a 85 GTI with a VR6 engine. This tale
is organized as a log that was written as each modification
was completed. Actually the task is more comprehensive than
simply installing an engine it is more like converting an A2
into a SLC Corrado in all but body style. When the VR6
engine was announced my original goal was to drop one in an
82 Scirocco but I was intimidated when I found out about the
mounting difficulties that would be involved due to the lack
of a sub-frame in the A1 cars. If you have the option, the
Corrado is the best choice as a donor car since the A2
platform is the same as the Golf. In fact the more Corrado
stuff you use the easier the job becomes. However due to the
scarcity of suitable low mileage Corrado wrecks in the LA
area I opted for a Jetta GLX and took on some the
engineering challenges that result.

How much of the donor car to use in some cases boils down to
a personal preference and some changes having to deal with
appearance I chose not to make. For instance to keep the
weight of the completed car to a minimum I did not want the
traction control/ABS, the 11 inch front brakes and the five
lug wheels. Others might opt for more road holding but the
choice of suspension will not fundamentally alter the nature
of the conversion. I started the project by buying a very
low mileage wrecked 95 Jetta GLX with a manual transmission.
I was careful to select a car with no damage to components
that I knew I would need. Many late model VW parts can only
be obtained from the dealer and they are very expensive.
The engine and trans are the heart of a swap but having all
the other miscellaneous bits and pieces in the garage next
to the receptor car makes the job a lot easier. If you
have to make a parts run with cash in hand every time you
need some odd connector or bracket you are likely to find a
junkyard dog rooting around in your wallet pocket. These
notes do not cover any performance type VR6 engine or
suspension mods since they are a separate project and have
been well documented by others.

The second step was to find a 85 GTI with a pristine body
and interior. Once a suitable car was in hand, registered
and smogged the engine compartment was completely stripped
and the front suspension removed. After bolting the GLX
subframe in place the engine/trans was trial fitted to see
what would have to change. With this decided, all non-
required brackets were removed and the necessary new holes
cut. After the required dents were made and new brackets
welded in place the engine compartment was washed and
repainted Alpine White.

FRONT SUSPENSION

In order to retain the stock 85 Golf GTI appearance I chose
not to use the plus suspension. . I did however feel the
need for larger brakes. The + A3 suspension differs from
the A2 Golf in a number of ways:

1) The + control arms are longer and position the wheel
hubs differently both laterally and longitudinally.
2) The steering knuckles use 5 bolt hubs, different
balljoints and brake caliper mounting dimensions.
3) The tops of the front struts are 1084 mm apart on the
Golf and 1110 mm apart on the Jetta GLX.
4) Both left and right tie rods are longer on the GLX.
5) The CV joints are similar in size but the splined
output shaft on the outer CV is larger on the GLX.
6) The + half shafts are longer.
7) The spring strut combination has a longer length on the
GLX

Unfortunately the A2 Golfs use a caliper design that does
not bolt to the steering knuckles, rather the caliper
mounting is integral with the steering knuckle. Other than
the ABS stuff and the number of lugs, both of the Corrados
and the Jetta GLX all use the same calipers and 11 inch
rotors. Unfortunately for me the 11 inch rotors and
calipers must be used with 15 inch wheels. Either VR6
Passat or G60 Corrado steering knuckles will mate with the
ball joints that will bolt up to A2 Golf control arms.
Either A3 Jetta or 16V Passat calipers and 10 inch rotors
will bolt up to the G60 steering knuckles. I had a brand new
set of 16V Scirocco brakes with 10 inch rotors and calipers
that I was saving for this project but it turned out that
both caliper mounting and rotor offset on 16V parts will not
quite match up with any steering knuckles that will fit the
A2 ball joints.

The components I ended up using that increased front brake
rotor diameter to 10 inches and maintained the stock 85 GTI
suspension geometry, while bolting up without modification,
were as follows:

1. 16V Scirocco half shafts and CV joints.
2. G60 Corrado steering knuckles and ball joints
3. 95 Jetta GLX tie rod ends, front springs and upper
strut bearings.
4. 85 GTI springs and struts.
5. 93 Jetta GLI calipers and rotors.
6. 16V Scirocco brake master cylinder with a 22 mm bore.
7. Stock 85 GTI rear brake proportioning valve.

The VR6 upper strut bearings from the GLX were used by
replacing the upper spring seat plates with ones from a VR6
powered Corrado VW PN 1H0 412 341. These Corrado seat
plates allow the use of the GTI springs with the VR6 strut
mount bearings. They have the additional advantage of
making it easy to correct for the extra weight of the VR6
engine. The front of the car was raised 3/8 of an inch by
adding washers between the top of the upper spring seat
plates and the bottom of the strut mount bearings.

ENGINE MOUNTING

The GLX subframe will bolt up to the Golf platform without
modification. The GLX subframe however has a rearward
extension on each side in the vicinity of the swaybar
mounts. Each extension has a hole for a 10 mm bolt that
secures it to the car body. Not to the platform directly
but to a longitudinal stiffener. There is a blockage inside
the stiffener that prevents access beyond a couple of inches
behind the hole location. With forethought a PEM nut or some
such could be slid in place above a hole drilled in the
stiffener at the subframe extension hole location.
Unfortunately I put this task off too long. It was
impossible to do with the subframe in place so I settled for
a couple of 6 mm thread forming screws into the stiffener.

The A2 Golf subframe design is very similar to the Jetta GLX
subframe except that the right rear mount is of the oil
damped type (PN 1H0 199 262K) as opposed to a larger version
of the horizontal-metal-sleeve-in-rubber type found in A1
cars. Contrary to what I was told by many people the plus
suspension of the Jetta does not change any dimensions in
the subframe. All important dimensions are the same. VW
created the “plus” by changing the dimensions of the control
arms and steering knuckles. When the VR6 engine was set in
the A2 engine bay on the GLX subframe the right side of the
engine was higher than the left with a slight interference
with the hood. When a 5 foot straight edge was laid across
the top of the engine one end was slightly below the top of
the left fender and the other end about 1.5 inches above the
right fender. By lowering the right rear engine mount 3/4
of an inch the top of the engine was horizontal and adequate
hood clearance was effected.

The right rear mount was lowered by chucking the top of the
mount housing in a lathe and cutting away the mounting
flange with a cutoff tool from the bottom of the mount
housing. When this was done the top of the mount could be
dropped 3/4 inch deeper into the hole in the flange and
rewelded. The bottom donut (PN 3A0 199 201B) was replaced
with one from a C (PN ) and the
bottom cup deepened by cutting out its bottom. The above
idea was suggested by Paul McCallum in the UK who sells a
modified mount for 80 pounds. The end result is very clean
with all rubber parts that wear remaining stock VW.

The front engine support was next dealt with. The ideal is
to obtain a VR6 Corrado or VR6 Passat front engine carrier
support (PN 1H0 199 201B or 357 199 201); it matches the
Golf chassis on the ends and provides a mounting pad for the
VR6 oil damped mount for the front of the engine. Because
of the scarcity of this part I chose to use the original 85
Golf front engine carrier and associated solid rubber mount.
I increased clearance between the right end of the carrier
and the air conditioner drive pulley by creating an
indentation using heat and hammer. The Golf rubber mount fit
the GLX engine mount bracket better by shimming the rear of
it up by 3/16 of an inch. Clearance between the hood and
the engine under conditions that stress the engine mounts
was checked by putting a piece of open-cell Styrofoam
between the top of the engine and the hood. Engine movement
crushes the Styrofoam to a thickness that is equal to the
minimum hood/engine clearance.

The only remaining task was to indent the right frame rail
about 3/8 inch to clear the top of the harmonic balancer on
the end of the VR6 crankshaft. This was done with hammer
work on the lower part of the chassis frame rail, no heat
was used. There is a horizontal stiffener inside the frame
rail. Achieving the required clearance is made easier if a
“peak” is first added to the center of the stiffener. The
peak was started by inserting a length of one inch pipe with
a partially flattened end inside the frame rail and twisting
it.

FIREWALL INSULATION

The GLX aluminum foil covered padding was trimmed and
installed on the GTI firewall to insulate the interior from
noise as well as well as to protect engine compartment
wiring and brake lines from radiated exhaust manifold heat.

RADIATOR

I chose to use a G60 radiator (PN 535 121 251C) instead of a
VR6 one (PN 535 121 251E) for a 6% gain in core area. There
is no particular problem with accommodating the increase in
width, it is the same size as the a/c A2 GTI radiator but
the I/O is on the left end instead of the right. On Corrado
radiators the top hose connection points toward the right
side of the car, not to the rear as in the GLX, so a VR6
Corrodo upper hose PN 535 121 101 H must be used. It looks
like the GLX lower hose should fit however there is just
enough twist required that it is in danger of flattening.
To avoid this risk I chose to use a Corrado lower hose (VW
PN 535 121 051B) also. See separate post for low cost
alternatives to VW hoses.

COOLING FAN

THE Corrodo VR6 cooling fan shroud is reported to be a drop-
in, however since I didn’t have one, I chose to use the
taller GLX shroud and its associated fans. The space
between the engine and radiator is minimal, requiring that
the electric PCV blower be relocated to provide clearance
below the intake manifold for the belt driven fan. None of
the cooling components are interchangeable between the
Corrodo and the GLX. Corrados have been plagued with
cooling fan problems and used fan motors are therefore
suspect. The GLX radiator is several inches taller (top to
bottom) than the A2 radiator requiring that the GLX fan
shroud be cut down to fit.. This was done by trimming
several inches off the bottom of the GLX shroud and adding a
stiffener on the inside between it and the radiator support
that also seals the bottom of the shroud. The bottom of the
shroud must also be either indented or notched to clear the
top of the front mount The top of the dip stick tube was
also relocated to be below and to the left of the intake
manifold.
.
BRACKETRY

To maintain a clean stock OEM appearance several mounting
brackets from the 95 Jetta GLX donor car were used in the
engine swap. In order to gain more clearance between the
fan and the battery the battery location was changed
slightly. The GTI rear battery hold down bracket was removed
and the GLX battery platform installed so that the battery
was rotated about 30 degrees giving several inches of
clearance between it and the fan shroud. The negative
terminal lead must be extended when using the GLX harness.
Generally VW uses separate brackets for mounting such things
as the radiator expansion reservoir and power distribution
box, power steering fluid reservoir, engine ECU, etc. The
brackets were removed by drilling out the spot welds with a
5/16 bit and carefully prying the brackets off. After
repainting, the new brackets were re-welded in place through
the 5/16 holes using a wire welder. A quick shot of paint
over the weld and the end result is very clean. In the case
of the cruise control pump there was no welding involved it
was mounted in the GTI under the bracket formerly used to
retain the ECU in the left end of the cabin ventilation
plenum.

SHIFTER

The change over to the cable shifting system used with the
VR6 transmission was a straight forward matter of un-bolting
the old Golf stuff and bolting in the new cable shifter from
the GLX. The hole pattern for the shifter in the Golf is
slightly wider than the one in the GLX shifter so the edges
of the shifter were notched a bit with a rat-tail file to
clear the four 8mm bolts. The shifter was then clamped in
place using fender washers. The only other modifications
necessary were to drill an additional 8 mm mounting hole in
the platform and screwing on a Golf ball.

FUEL SUPPLY

The original 85 GTI fuel pumps (one transfer pump in the
tank and one external pressure pump) were retained. While
the VR6 Motronic injection system operates at a lower system
pressure than the original KE Jetronic this difference is
taken care of by the new pressure regulator on the VR6 fuel
rail. The GTI fuel sender also seems reasonably compatible
with the fuel gauge in the VR6 instrument cluster.

PEDAL CLUSTER

The VR6 engine uses a hydraulically actuated clutch in place
of the cable operated one on the A2 Golf. On the A2 Golf
the upper part of the clutch pedal (the part that would
actuate the clutch master cylinder) is to the right of the
steering column. The clutch master cylinder must mount on
the firewall to the left of the steering column to avoid
interference with the brake servo on the engine side of the
firewall. The Jetta GLX pedal assembly could be made to
work since it has the required mounting and actuation for
the clutch master cylinder however it would be quite a bit
of work to get it adapted into position between the steering
column, the fire wall and the dash. I chose to buy a
complete pedal assembly from a G60 Corrado. The C pedal
assembly bolts up fine with only a few rubs. Just cut a 1
1/2 inch hole for the slave cylinder and a mounting hole or
two and its done. I noted that while both the G60 and the
GLX master and slave cylinders were very similar the
actuating rods on both cylinders were different lengths and
the bore diameters were different. I chose to use all the
stuff from the GLX (it was almost new anyway) Unfortunately
the GLX clutch master cylinder mates to the clutch pedal arm
with a ball and socket arrangement whereas the G60 uses a
clevis pin. I cut off the ball on the end of the master
cylinder push rod and fabricated a clevis fitting from a
small piece of .35 thick aluminum. In one edge I drilled a
.22 dia hole for the rod to push into and inline with it
drilled a 8 mm hole for the clutch arm clevis pin to pass
through. The block is retained with the G60 clip and clevis
pin.

When the Corrado pedal cluster is used the GTI double
jointed connecting shaft between the bottom of the steering
column and the rack ends up being about 1/4 of an inch
short. I dealt with this problem by cutting the shaft in
half and adding a sleeve of 3/4 inch ID heavy wall steel
tube over the shaft. The sleeve is held in place with two
thru bolts. Interestingly this same arrangement is used on
the GLX but the GLX shaft cannot be used since the spline on
the rack end is coarser than the one for the GTI.

The GLX throttle cable end that mates with the gas pedal is
different from the throttle cable end on the G60 accelerator
pedal. Rather than buy a Corrado VR6 throttle cable I cut
the end off the GLX throttle pedal and grafted it on the
cable end of the G60 accelerator pedal.

As an aside the brake servo pushrod on the GLX also mates to
the brake pedal arm with a ball and nylon socket whereas the
G60 like other A1 and A2 cars uses a 8 mm clevis pin.

STEERING COLUMN

There is a great deal of wiring associated with the steering
column, supporting such diverse functions as MFA control,
hazard flashers, cruise control, window washers and turn
signals. The GLX column is a tilt column that mounts from
below on a beam about knee level while the GTI mounts from
above. Others have just welded a GTI style bracket to a
Corrado column however I thought it was cleaner to use the
GTI outer shell and put all the GLX stuff in and on it. The
only original GTI parts that were used were the wheel,
plastic covers, column tube with bracket and the ignition
lock cylinder. The only modification to the column tube is
to relocate the tab that holds the upper casting in place.
Once the tab is removed every thing will drop in place. The
GLX uses a bushing with a spline inside and a second larger
spline outside to adapt to the air-bag steering wheel. When
this adapter is discarded it is necessary to add a means to
retain the upper bearing pre-load spring. The GTI uses a
push ring. Not having a push ring of the proper size, I
drilled the shaft and added a small cotter key over a washer
to retain the compressed spring.

Judicious use of a Drermel tool was made to carve the
interior of the plastic covers to allow the many GLX
connectors to fit inside. The only externally visible
modification is one hole in the bottom cover required to
clear the turn-signal-switch connector. The finished
appearance is very clean.

DASHBOARD

I like the OEM look and consistent with this preference my
original plan was to keep the Golf GTI instrument cluster,
however when I looked at having to deal with the speedometer
and MFA problems I reconsidered. The crux of the problem is
that the GLX instrument cluster is slightly taller and about
11/2 inches wider than the GTI instrument cluster it must
replace. Mounting the GLX cluster was handled by cutting
away the interfering behind-dash plastic structure about two
inches forward of the dash. New “hooks” that support the
mounting pins on either side of the instrument cluster were
fabricated and screwed to the stubs left intact when the
plastic dash structure was previously cut off. It is
important that the cluster be rigidly supported to avoid
classic VW dash squeaks and rattles. The Golf
headlight/dash-lamp dimmer switch was replaced with a
push/pull type headlight switch/dimmer from a US Rabbit and
relocated to the stock hole located in a recess below and
immediately to the left of the steering column. I believe
this hole is used for a cold starting control on diesel
powered cars. The black rubber knob from a late bug was
used for the HL switch. Moving the head light switch
allowed for the extra width of the GLX instrument cluster.

The cosmetic phase of this project is not yet completed so
some of this description is theoretical right now. It is my
intent to fabricate from 1/8 inch black Kydex (textured
thermo-formable acrylic-PVC alloy sheet stock manufactured
by Rohm & Haas Co.) a trim bezel to replace the GTI part.
The fore and aft portion of the GLX bezel will be cut away
and then glued to the rear of the Kydex bezel.

Other VR6 swappers have installed the entire Corrodo
dashboard which apparently pretty much fits except for the
ends of the dash near the doors that need some trimming. Of
course once you change the dash the console will want to
come with it. Not having seen one of these installations I
cannot compare the relative merits of the two approaches
other than to observe that it depends a lot on what parts
are available.

INSTRUMENT CLUSTER

The instrument cluster gave me fits at first but once I
decided I had no choice but to modify the dashboard it was
very easy, at least electrically. The GLX transmission has
no mechanical speedometer pickoff point and would be
difficult to deal with, not to mention all the various
sensors that match the MFA in the GLX instrument cluster.
Once you accept the inevitable your course of action is
obvious. There is a single mega-wire cable from the
fuse/relay panel (it plugs into locations U1 and U2) to the
instrument cluster. Electrically the task is trivial since
new wiring is not necessary, however mounting the cluster
and making the drivers-eye view beautiful is another whole
story.

To fit in the GTI dash the height of the cluster was reduced
slightly by removing the white lamp housing and green filter
on the top of the cluster. Green silicone boots were added
over the lamps removed from the housing and the lamps
themselves moved into the slot in the top of the instrument
cluster. The slot was then covered with a strip of aluminum
tape. The repositioned GLX cluster mounts and is installed
and removed just like in the original VW installation, only
its positioning and location have been changed.

WIRING

When you first meet the wiring on the VR6 engined cars,
typically by removing the engine, it is a bit intimidating
as you think about having to get it all back together again.
Its enough to make the faint of heart turn to a brace of
Webers. In the process of removing the engine and behind-
dash harnesses I counted and labeled almost 100 connectors.
Once you get into it however you find that, with the
exception of the engine sensor connectors, practically all
connectors are unique. In other words almost no male will
plug into an in-appropriate female connector even if it has
the same number of pins and is of similar appearance.
Needless to say, having either the Bentley or the VW wiring
manual for the donor car, obtainable from Dymet in
Strongsville, OH (216) 572-0725, is an absolute necessity
before starting this project. Caution is the watchword,
blowing up some of this solid state stuff due to a wiring
mistake can really divert cash out of your VR6 hopup budget
fast.

My strategy for dealing with the extensive engine management
wiring was to use as much of the GLX stuff as possible and
to only use the 85 Golf wiring for functions from the
dashboard rearward (rear lighting, fuel pumps, etc.) To
this end all GTI wiring in the engine compartment and behind
the dash left of center was removed. The wiring from the
firewall forward (technically the fuse/relay panel forward)
uses the single GLX wiring harness for all functions. The
GLX engine harness mostly plugs into the GLX fuse/relay
panel. The GTI harness and fuse block were removed from the
car and not used. The mounting bracket from a G60 C was
used to mount the GLX fuse/relay block in the location
formerly occupied by the GTI relay panel. New holes had to
be drilled in the bracket base to match the two mounting
studs in the Golf and properly position the bracket. The
fuses and relays are now accessed through a rectangular hole
cut in the back of the left cubby hole in the lower dash
cover.

Disclaimer: All the wiring information below, while
comprehensive is not totally complete. There are bound to
be small problems that must be individually resolved. Even
the VW wiring diagrams have a few discrepancies. For
instance my GLX headlight switch had two more wires on it
than is shown on the latest VW diagrams.

A short adapter harness was fabricated to go from the
connector on the end of the GLX instrument harness to the
equivalent connector on the GTI. This serves to enable the
heater blower and air conditioning. The GTI uses a relay
normally mounted in the fuse/relay panel to power the blower
when the switch is in the high speed position while the GLX
powers the blower directly with a switch contact. A relay
was added in the adapter harness to perform this function.
This jumper harness consists of the fan switch connector,
T10 Gray connector, GLX connector T8 and the relay. I call
the relay contacts A & B and the relay coil C & D. The
following table details the splices:


GLX CON WIRE FUNCTION WIRE GTI CON RELAY
PIN COLOR COLOR PIN
Conn T8 Conn T10
Gray
1 bla/re Power yel/bla 4 A
d Cont
2 wht/gr ? - -
e
3 wht/bl Inst Lts - -
u
4 bro Gnd - - C
Coil
5 green A/C signal gy/gre & 6 & 8
to ECU bro/blu
6 green Turns on bro/red 7
A/C
7 wht ? - -
8 - - - -
wht/red 10 B
Cont
High Spd bro/wht - D
Contact Coil


As mentioned previously in the DASHBOARD section the GLX
instrument cluster is wider than the GTI cluster opening so
the GTI headlight switch was relocated and replaced with one
from a US Rabbit. Since the Rabbit switch does not support
some functions, such as fog lights and switch lighting there
are wires in the harness that are not used. The following
table details the connections:

RABBIT SW WIRE COLOR FUNCTION GLX CON & WIRE COLOR
PIN PIN
1 bro/wht Dome Light - -
Gnd
2 gy/blu Inst gy/blu
Lights
3 wht/bla Head Lamps bla/yel
4 gy/red Battery red/yel
5 gy Park & F gy/bla
Side Lts gy/gre
6 gy Tail & R gy/red
Side Lts
7 bla/yel Ign Switch bla/yel
gnd bro Gnd bro


Most of the GTI rear body wiring attaches to three
connectors on the GLX fuse/relay panel in connector
locations K, L and M. A short harness was made up with the
K, L and M connectors on one end and the GTI rear wiring
connector (T10/gray) mate on the other end. The following
table details the connections:

GTI CON WIRE COLOR FUNCTION GLX CON & WIRE COLOR
PIN & SIZE PIN
Conn T10
Gray
1 gy/gre Parking Bk L6
#18 Sw
2 red/wht Trunk Lt L5 red/wht
#18
3 gre/bla Fuel Pumps M2 red/yel
#14
4 yel/bla Fuel M3 vio/bla
#18 Sender
5 wht/gre Rear Win K12 wht
#14 Defog
6 blk/gy Backup Lts K8 blk/blu
#18
7 blk/gre R Turn Sig K7 blk/gre
#18 Lts
8 blk/red Brake Lts K4 blk/red
#18
9 gy Tail & Lic K2 gy/bla
#18 Lts gy/red
10 bla/wht L Turn Sig K1 blk/wht
#18 Lts
K11 bro
Dome Lt L7

The cable from GLX connector P goes only to the rear window
defogger switch and also needs an appropriate 85 Golf style
connector put on the switch end to match the GTI switch.

The method I use to splice wires in automotive projects is
to strip the ends of both wires, twist the stripped ends
together and solder. The joint is then covered with a short
length of heat shrink tubing. I find this technique neater
and more OEM in appearance than crimp type butt splices. If
the splice is under hood or where water can get at it, I
cover the joint with a little silicone grease ( Dow Corning
#5) or RTV before shrinking the tubing over the joint for an
extremely reliable connection.

REAR WINDOW WASHER/WIPER

Since the GLX does not have a rear window wiper the steering-
column-wiper-control arm did not have a switch for this
function. I dealt with this by mounting a VW A2 type fog
lamp switch on the dash in the location formerly occupied by
the emergency flasher switch. The dash mounted Golf
emergency flasher switch is no longer required since this
function is available on the GLX steering column. The
original GTI rear wiper relay is used and it is powered from
the fuse in location 16 thru a wire fed from connector/pin .
FRONT LIGHTING

All forward lighting power on the GLX is supplied by a
single harness that plugs into the engine harness. Adapting
this lighting harness to the GTI is a simple matter of
replacing connectors for the GLX lights with ones for the
GTI turn signals and clearance lamps. On the GLX the horns,
ambient air temperature sensor and A/C pressure switches are
on the right side of the car and on the left on the A2 cars.
To deal with this I unwrapped the GLX lighting harness and
split out the horn and sensor wiring on the left side near
the engine harness connector. The harness was then re-
wrapped. The right side of the Golf was simply too crowded
to conveniently mount the horns there.

CRUISE CONTROL

The cruise control system uses its own separate wiring
harness and no modifications were required. The pump was
mounted in the old GTI ECU location and the control box was
mounted behind the dash with the vacuum line and pump wiring
going through the firewall by putting a grommet in the old
speedometer cable hole.

AIR CLEANER

I would have liked to use the GLX aircleaner but it is too
wide to fit in the space between the VR6 and the right side
of the Golf engine compartment. The VR6 Corrado air cleaner
is a drop in. A short duct was fabricated to get cool air
from the space between the right side of the radiator and
the right frame rail. Many VW tuners choose the reusable
conical K&N filters and while the compact size was appealing
the thought of inducting hot under-hood air left me cold.
They might look like a good choice if you only do dyno runs
with the hood up but I try to avoid having the hood open
when I want max power.

AIR CONDITIONING

I will not cover the A/C in detail since the choices are
quite individual. Corrodo hoses go across the firewall and
approach the condenser and compressor from the left while
the GLX hoses go along the right fender wall like the
original Golf. This presents some clearance problems when
you try to run the hoses between the engine and fan shroud.
As I said individual solutions will vary. Note that a non
A/C serpentine belt is available for the VR6. I will be
glad to discuss these issues on an individual basis via
Email sent to EeeeeeS@aol.com

EXHAUST SYSTEM

The exhaust system was fabricated by using the GLX front
resonator and 55 mm tubing and fabricating everything from
there back from 2 1/4 inch tube. It is pretty roomy in that
area so dimensions are not too critical. The required
twists and turns were made by butt splicing pieces made from
sections of tube and two 180 degree 6 inch radius mandrel
bends. The rear muffler I chose is a Walker DynoMax PN
17731. The tubing used has a 60 thou wall and a bend radius
of 6 inches. It can be purchased from JC Whitney. How this
is done to achieve a professional result is another story in
of itself but if done properly the finished part is hard to
distinguish from a continuous tube.

For those so inclined the parts I used were two back to back
45 deg bends in a horizontal plane to go to the left of
center followed by a 90 deg bend in a vertical plane to go
over the axle. A vertical plane 45 deg bend hooks to the
end of the 90 deg bend before heading to the exhaust pipe
opening in the rear skirt. There are a total of 90 degrees
in phantom bends in the system achieved by twisting the
splices. One 45 degree twist is between the two horizontal
45 deg bends and two more 22 1/2 deg twists on either side
of the vertical 90 deg bend.
The fabrication outlined above requires a protractor and a
chop saw and is based on the geometric principle that if a
mandrel bend is cut on its radius (perpendicular to the axis
of the tubing) the cut end of the tube will describe a
circle rather than an ellipse. The circle is easily matched
to either a piece of straight tubing or another section of
mandrel bend. This only works if the mandrel bends are of
high quality and the cuts are accurate. The tube is
positioned in the chop saw by a circular wooden plug the
diameter of which is twice the mandrel bend radius minus the
diameter of the tubing. The plug is bolted to the chop saw
table with the saw blade aligned with the center of the
plug. If you can make a cut mid-way in a bend and have the
cut faces match when they are turned in relationship to each
other the fixture is set up properly.

The exhaust hangers were fabricated from the part used on
the body end of the rubber dounut used to support the CAT
on a Rabbit. These are plentiful in junkyards and match the
Rabbit donuts and the hangers on the 85 GTI body.

PARTS LIST

Following is a list of VW parts required to install a VR6
engine in a A2 Golf body:
1. VR6 engine & transaxle
2. Shifter and cable mechanism
3. Subframe from a VR6 powered car
4. Front mount crossmember *1
5. Half shafts with 100 mm diameter inner CV flanges.
6. Steering column from a VR6 powered car.
7. Corrado radiator VR6 or G60
8. Corrado VR6 radiator hoses
9. VR6 powered dual fan radiator shroud assembly
10. High pressure radiator header tank and bracket
11. Air-conditioning stuff *2
12. Cat
13. Exhaust Stuff *3
14. Clutch master and slave cylinders
15. Corrado pedal assembly
16. Brake fluid reservoir with clutch cylinder fluid outlet
17. Engine wiring harness
18. Fan relay/fuse block
19. Instrument cluster
20. Instrument wiring harness
21. Instrument cluster harness
22. Grille harness
23. Miscellaneous connectors from the rear body harness
that match VR6 fuse/relay panel
24. Main VR6 fuse/relay block
25. ECU

*1 The A2 crossmember can be used but one from a Passat or
Corrado is to be preferred.
*2 What is required to install air-conditioning will depend
on whether a R12 or a R134 system is desired. A serpentine
belt is available for use on an engine without an a/c
compressor.
*3 The A2 Golf had a 2 inch dia system with ugly crimped
bends, presumably something more free breathing will be
desired.



PRIOR ART

Listed below in no particular order are all other
individuals and tuners that I am aware of that have
performed VR6 swaps into older water-cooled VW chassis.
1. Max Nealon in the UK has a Rabbit with a much modified
VR6. His car apparently is very functional in appearance
having the firewall moved rearward and a rally car like
interior with aluminum panels, roll cage, etc. Max’s Email
address is max@basing.progress.com
2. Rons Parts Inc in Canada has done several A2s and an A1
swap. Employees’ cars have been featured in European Car in
the Jan 94 issue and two later cars are featured in the May
96 issue.
3. EIP Tuning in N Carolina has a VR6/A2 featured in an
issue of European Car. Rich the helpful owner of EIP can be
reached via Email at EIPTUNING@aol.com
4. Stu also in NC has a 3.1 VR6 powered 86 GTI. He can be
reached at
5. There is a turboed VR6 engined 89 Golf that belongs to
a Jamaican resident pictured on page 25 of the Aug 95 issue
of EC. This engine on this car has been modified
subsequently by EIP.
6. Tim Styles Racing in the UK has a car featured in Cars
& Conversions and the car is mentioned on page 45 of EC Feb
96.
7. Paul McCallum of Deutschcar in the UK has his A2/VR6
featured in the Aug 95 issue of Cars & Conversions, a UK
magazine. He also offers conversion mounts for sale.
8. Sandor Kruise, a VW technician in the Netherlands, has
a wild sounding Golf with an extensively modified VR6. Can
be reached via Email at digitech@ilimburg.nl
9. Wayland Gee is in the process of swapping a Corrado VR6
into an 85 GTI. Progress of his project can be seen on his
home page at http://userwww.sfsu.edu/~ebnacor/waytech.html.
Wayland’s Email address is wkgee@ucdavis.edu
10. Peter Haug of Redondo Beach, CA transplanted the
drivetrain from a 94 SLC into an 88 Golf GTI. Peter can be
reached at peter.haug@alliedsignal.com or DR5LUG@aol.com

TOOLS & TIME

This seemed an odd question to me but enough people have
asked so here it is. Other than basic hand tools and an
electric drill nothing else is mandatory. An important
factor is the availability of Corrado parts. The more
Corrado parts used the fewer the modifications and the
easier the job. Additionally the A/C and the external oil
cooler added quite a bit of work to make everything fit in
the limited space available. In the way of nice to have
items that I used in this project were the following:
· A well lighted garage.
· Engine hoist. I use a heavy duty coffin puller hooked
to the rafters in my garage.
· Floor jack and jack stands
· VOM to buzz out the wiring.
· Acetylene torch to help with some the bashing.
· Chop saw to modify brackets and fab the exhaust.
· MIG welder to fab the exhaust system and attach
brackets.
· Dremel tool, indispensable for dash and steering column
mods not to mention undoing tack welds made by mistake.
· Lathe used to cut down the right rear mount and make
various fittings and spacers.

The time thing is a lot more difficult to tell about since
there is no way for a reader to know what else was going on
in my life and no one else did anything on this project. I
am told that for-money guys like Rons Parts and EIP get it
done in about three weeks using all Corrado parts. The
biggest time sinks for me were the A/C, oil cooler and the
GTI dash. A last crucial factor in stretching out the time
for me was that I shopped around a lot to avoid overpaying
for some of the necessary parts. Besides, speeding up the
project would only shorten the fun.

APPENDIX

In my quest for maximum road horsepower and lower underhood
temperatures I decided to stick with a R12 based air
conditioning system. Using similar components, a R12 system
is about 50 % more efficient than a R134a system for the
same cooling effect. In simpler terms you get more hp left
for the road with R12 than you do with R134a unless you
don’t mind getting hot. VWs with VR6 engines built after
1993 use R134a and a variable displacement compressor driven
by a serpentine belt system for the a/c. I couldn’t find a
suitable clutch that would fit a SD 708 compressor that
would fit on the VR6. In any case these parts would be
pretty expensive. So after quite a bit of on-line research,
I established that the Sanden SD7V16 compressor that came on
the GLX could be used with R12 by the simple expedient of
flushing all the PAG oil out of it and refilling the system
with R12. The only problem would be accommodating the
incompatible fittings on the compressor ends of the Golf
hoses.

Because of the reduced clearance between the radiator and
the VR6 the fat low-side hose must also be extended. Both
these goals were accomplished by cutting the Golf low-side
hose off just after the in-line muffler and welding on the
hose end from the GLX. The resulting hose will now be long
enough to reach around the left end of the intake manifold
and not have to go between the manifold and radiator shroud.
The smaller GLX high side hose was used without modification
by making up an extension from the aluminum parts of the
Golf high side hose. The extension was made by welding the
switch and service valve fittings removed from the Golf onto
an aluminum line from a Toyota that had the right fittings
on both ends. When completed the hose assemblies are rather
resistant to twisting so be sure to orient them optimally
before welding the two ends together. The resulting
installation is very clean.

It cannot be stressed too strongly the necessity of
completely flushing out all the PAG oil, used in R134a
systems, from the lines and compressor before introducing
mineral oil, used with R12, into the system. Mixing the two
lubricants, particularly in the presence of steel which acts
as a catalyst, will result in severe corrosion in the
system.

Since the GLX used a variable displacement compressor that
regulates the low side pressure to 29 PSI the temperature
controlled switch on the evaporator core that causes the
clutch to cycle is not a strict necessity however since the
95 Golf already has one I left it in place in series with
the compressor clutch. A new drier, evacuation and a
recharge with R12 completes the installation.

OILCOOLER

The article that follows outlines how to fabricate a very
efficient oil cooling system for the VW VR6 engine. The
system described, while in the strictest sense a bolt-on,
needs to be fabricated. I have described sources for the
key parts and the modifications required to make them all
work together. The result is very low cost and gives
performance that cannot be bettered at any price.

If you believe even a tenth of the on-line posts on the
subject, the VR6 engine needs all the help in the cooling
department it can get. Like the diesels and 16V engines, the
VR6 has oil squirters that direct a spray of oil over the
bottom side of the piston crowns to maximize the cooling
effect of the oil. VW choose to transfer this heat to the
radiator via a oil to water heat exchanger. This is a cost
effective solution on their part in that an oil radiator is
eliminated with the additional benefit of fast warm-up of
the oil. However it also provides hotrodders who live in
hot climates an opportunity to easily increase system
cooling capacity. A well designed cooling system has excess
capacity and uses a thermostat to set the operating
temperature.
One of the best VW oil cooler systems around was the
original factory system used on the European GTIs. This
system replaced the US style oil filter mount with one
containing connections for an external oil cooler and a
thermostat with a large diameter hot-wax actuated piston.
Like most OEM VW parts this is a very high quality piece not
to be compared with some of the after market stuff produced
by obscure manufacturers. This thermostat is of the same
design as used in 911 & 935 Porsches with front mounted oil
radiators. In fact the pistons are interchangeable with the
VW ones except that the Porsche thermostat opens 15 deg C
lower in temperature than the one VW specified for the Euro
GTI.

Lucky for us the Audi 5000 turbos use the same thermostat
with the added advantage that, unmodified, it will bolt up
to the VR6 block in place of the oil/water heat exchanger.
Turbo Audis are plentiful in junkyards and I only had to pay
$3.50 for this fine item at my local Pick-A-Part. The
earlier turbo Audis had two filters on this mount and turbo
diesels have a cover where the second filter would go. I
am not sure but it looks like one filter is for the engine
and the other for the turbo. The mount I obtained ( VW PN
034 115 417) was off of a 86 Audi turbo and it differs from
the earlier cars in that only one oil filter is used and the
oil lines to the cooler are1/2 inch while the earlier cars,
like the Euro GTI have 3/8 inch lines. The bad news is that
there is an interference with the upper of the two ignition
knock sensors on the VR6. Knock sensors, as implemented by
VW, are notoriously finicky about their mounting. Because
of the foregoing I was reluctant to alter the sensor
mounting in any way. The are numerous ways to make this
accommodation and the path chosen will depend upon the
nature of the resources available. A simple way would be to
add a 1/4 inch thick disk as a spacer between the adapter
and the VR6 block. This would work well with the older two-
filter adapter but would require fabrication of a new longer
mounting bolt to use the 86 filter mount. I chose to lop
off the filter mounting flange and weld a cover over the
hole. This allows the Audi adapter to mount on the VR6 with
the thermostat portion of the adapter pointing straight down
with plenty of clearance all around. The turbocharger oil
line hole must also be closed either by welding it over or
by plugging it with a 3/8-18 setscrew tapped into the hole
in the casting.

On the VR6 the oil inlet and outlet end up facing straight
forward where there is plenty of clearance, if 45 degree
hose-end fittings are used. Both VR6 water hose
connections, that formerly went to the oil/water
intercooler, were closed with caps.

It is tempting to consider bypassing the canister filter
that comes with the VR6 and using a conventional spin on
filter on the Audi mount however I do not think that this is
feasible. I am guessing, but I’ll bet that VW engineers
considered the maximum VR6 oil pressure excessive for a spin-
on type filter.

The oil cooler used by the earliest Audies is the same as
the one used on later Bug engines with the dog house oil
cooler. Later cars use a similar shaped cooler but with
banjo fittings right on the cooler. I don’t believe the
Bug/Audi shaped cooler is optimum in form factor for most VW
applications since it has a rather thick core that is better
suited to a location with a high air pressure and on the
Golf it is hard to find such a location. An aftermarket
cooler that is thinner but with much more core area,
mounted below and behind the bumper, should be much more
effective.

The cooler I selected came from a rotary powered Mazda. It
is a monster thing 5x19.5 inches with large I/O fittings.
Conveniently the threads into the aluminum fittings on the
Mazda cooler are the same as the threads on the older Audi
oil filter mounts. Unfortunately they come out on the side
and I had to relocate the fittings to the right end. In my
installation in a 85 Golf the oil lines exit the
thermostatic mount from 45 degree fittings and go
horizontally to the right, past the a/c compressor and
around the end of the radiator. The two oil lines continue
forward out of the engine compartment through the 5 inch
space between the right end of the radiator and the frame
and directly into the cavity in the backside of the bumper
where the oil cooler is mounted vertically by bolting its
mounting tabs to brackets that extend rearward from the top
inside of the steel bumper insert. The 3/4 inch thick
aluminum brackets are secured by bolting to PEM nuts
(nutserts) installed in the top of the insert. The cooler
is positioned toward the drivers side of the car and
protrudes slightly below the bumper. The hoses lay in one
continuous arc directly into the right end of the Mazda
cooler.

The Mazda oil cooler has a built in thermostat that I did
not want to use so I removed it and its associated spring
and replaced them with a 2 inch length of 1/2 inch hose.
When compressed by the end plug, the hose is just the right
diameter to seal the thermostat cavity. As an aside the
Mazda oil cooler with thermostat might be used with a simple
non-thermostatic sandwich plate type oil cooler pickup. The
major problem with this approach is that the hoses are
subject to very high pressures when the oil is cold. I
rejected using the Mazda thermostat to avoid the added flow
restriction of the hoses to cold oil.

The plumbing for an oil cooler installation should be low
restriction, light weight, tolerate high pressures and be
very reliable. Personally I also add low cost to the list.
To meet these requirements I choose size 8 a/c hose
fittings, the kind that use an O ring to make the seal. The
fittings are available in either aluminum or steel in a wide
variety of configurations. They seal well and have very low
flow restriction. If you are serious about an OEM look you
can have hoses made up at any a/c shop, other wise use
clamps and a/c fittings scrounged from your local junk yard.
The aftermarket fittings designed to work with clamps are
the easiest to work with but the OEM crimp-on fittings can
also be used by cutting off the crimp-on ferule. To connect
the hose fittings to, on the right end of the cooler, I
welded on two female fittings removed from an old a/c
condenser.

I used the hose ends from the Audi that match the fittings
on the thermostatic filter mount. The hose end fittings are
odd metric things that use a tapered ferule and O ring for
sealing but they have nice low restriction bends and will
work on fractional-inch sized hose if modified. The Audi oil
hoses are rather nice steel braid covered Teflon lined types
but it is unlikely that a suitable cooler location can be
found on the VW that the hoses will reach

The hose ends on the late Audi are designed to be used with
steel braid covered Teflon lines however they are a little
contorted for use in a typical VR6 installation. I chose to
use 300 PSI rubber covered lines so I made fittings by
silver soldering hose barbs on to the cutoff ends of the
Audi fittings. The contorted fittings can easily be reduced
to a simple 45 degree bend by cutting them off just past the
first bend and brazing on a hose barb cut from the end of a
steel a/c hose fitting. If you choose to use the early Audi
oil filter mount, the hose ends from the cooler end of the
Audi hoses are just right unmodified for use on the engine
end of the hoses in a VR6 installation. They have the
additional advantage that they are designed for use with
rubber hose and require no modification. Also the threads on
the early oil filter mount are close enough to 5/8 -18 to
use standard AN fittings if so desired.

I have tried to provide some background leading to my
decisions so that my junk yard parts research could help
other fabricators that have unique installation problems in
other vehicles using the VR6 engine.

VR6 Corrado RADIATOR HOSE

TOP HOSE

The top radiator hose PN 535 121 101H on a VR6 powered
Corrado that sells for over one hundred bucks at your
friendly dealer can be replaced with one from Trak Auto ( PN
71238 for $5.35) The fit is good as purchased and was made
perfect in my case by trimming 1/2 of an inch from the
radiator end. The bad news is that the 71238 has no
provision for the 8 mm air bleed hose. I remedied this by
making a fitting to tap into the plastic elbow on the top of
the radiator. I made the necessary fitting by drilling out
the center of a 1/4-20 stainless steel bolt with a #30 drill
and silver soldering the bolt into a brass 5/16 hose barb
fitting. The hose barb fitting I started with was for 1/8
inch pipe. I cut the threads off nice and square just past
the hex and soldered the 1/4-20 bolt in the 1/4 inch hole in
the hose barb fitting. The plastic elbow was drilled and
tapped with 1/4-20 into the mounting flange just above the
O ring opposite the inlet. Make sure the hole is
perpendicular to the flange surface to insure a good seal.
A thin rubber washer on the screw for sealing completes the
fabrication. The bolt threads were coated with Permatex
“just in case.”

Do not be tempted to omit the air bleed hose. This hose
drains the air pockets, that will develop at the two high
points in the cooling system, into the headertank.

BOTTOM HOSE

The bottom radiator hose PN 535 121 051B that sells for 50
bucks at the dealer can also be replaced by one from Trak
Auto (PN 70995 for $7.49) The shape required is quite
complex and I did not expect to find one that would be an
exact fit however to my surprise the 70995 can be installed
without modification and function but the installed shape is
not very esthetic. The complex shape of the VW hose is
forced by the requirement that it go up and over the
swinging weight on the shifter just after the hose connects
to the coolant outlet on the block. To get a perfect fit I
cut the hose in two and flipped the top piece end for end
and spliced the two pieces back together with a 2 1/2 inch
long piece of 1 1/4 inch OD tubing. The hose as it comes
from Trak approximates a question mark in shape if held up
vertical with the 1 1/4 inlet at the top and the 1 3/8
outlet at the bottom. The hose should be cut about 1 1/2
inches below the end of the curved portion of the question
mark and again about 4 inches below that. The 4 inch piece
is discarded. The 1 1/2 inch stub just created by the first
cut goes to the engine outlet and the top part of the
question mark is spliced to the top end of the bottom piece
of the hose. Trial fit everything in the car before
clamping anything in place. Get the proper orientation
between the top and bottom pieces of hose before clamping
them to the splice tube.

The thin wall 1 1/4 OD brass tubing used for the splice is
available in plumbing stores. It is intended for use above
or below the trap in a sink drain. Try to avoid the chrome
plated stuff as it is quite slippery.